Material · solid wood
Solid wood: species, drying, care
Solid wood is not chosen from a photograph. Species, moisture content, grain direction and finish decide what your tabletop will look like in ten years.
8 min · Updated 5 November 2026
Solid wood is not chosen from a catalogue photo. Two tops from the same oak can produce one table that stays flat for twenty years and one board that cups within two winters, depending on drying, grain direction and how the top is fixed to its base. Here is what we check before cutting, and what it means for your budget and for upkeep.
Four species, four uses
Oak is hard, dense (about 700 kg/m³), stable once dry, with a strong grain: the best compromise for a tabletop or a stair tread. Walnut is warm brown and softer, marking more easily but repairing well. Beech is pale, even and affordable but very sensitive to humidity swings, while pine is light, resinous and cheap but marks quickly. Outdoors, forget beech and pine: oak or robinia, use class 3 or 4, oiled and never varnished.
Drying and stability
A top moves all its life: it widens in humid air, shrinks as it warms, cups if one face dries faster than the other. The only way to limit that is properly dried timber. We never machine a top above 12% moisture, and aim for 8 to 10% indoors. Air drying takes about one year per centimetre of thickness, followed by kiln stabilisation — which is why a 45 mm solid oak table cannot be delivered in three weeks.
Marrying steel and wood
Steel and wood move differently, so a top fixed rigidly to a welded frame always ends up splitting. We fix tops to rails with slotted holes that let the wood slide a few millimetres, never with a fully tightened bolt. Contact isolation matters too: untreated steel against damp wood rusts and stains it, so we insert a neoprene strip or isolating washer at contact points and treat the steel before assembly.
Oil, wax, varnish
Hard wax oil penetrates the wood, keeps a natural feel and repairs locally: fine sanding plus one coat and the mark is gone. Wax gives a silky patina but protects less against liquids. Varnish forms a film, resists hot cups better, but yellows, scratches and repairs badly — the whole surface has to be stripped.
Care over the years
An oiled top is wiped with a damp sponge, no aggressive detergent, no abrasive pad. Three habits add years: coasters under cold glasses, trivets under hot dishes (above 60 °C the oil marks), and a quick wipe of anything sugary. A pale haze is recoverable: light sanding along the grain, dust off, thin coat of oil. Oil once or twice a year to keep the colour, or accept the grey with a saturator every three years. Never varnish outdoors.
Wood outdoors
Outdoor joints must drain: no wood laid flat on a support, no end grain touching the ground, and galvanised steel feet rather than bare steel.
Prices and lead times
Ranges below are for an assembled, oiled top with a welded steel base, delivered within 200 km of the workshop.
| Piece | Dimensions / species | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Top only, oiled | 180 × 90 cm, 40 mm oak | €890 |
| Steel and oak table | 180 × 90 cm, welded base | €1,510 |
| Steel and oak table | 240 × 100 cm | €2,250 |
| Steel and walnut table | 200 × 95 cm | €2,450 |
| Oak stair tread, oiled | 45 mm, each | €145 |
| Re-oiling in the workshop | Table up to 2 m | €120 |
Indicative prices including 20% tax, delivery within 200 km included up to 60 km. Wood is a natural material: colour and grain vary from piece to piece, which is precisely the point.
Lead time: three to five weeks depending on species and board availability, with an extra week of curing for the oiled finish. A wide walnut top can take six weeks and we prefer to say so.
Every project starts with a drawing, not a photograph.
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